Sodafone

I remember the day I made my first wax candle at home, with supplies bought from a local store. I just couldn’t get over my amazement at how much like a ‘real candle’ my effort looked, just as I could not believe how relatively simple it had been. It was my friend Charlene, an aromatherapy expert, who had initiated me in the art of candle making, and today, I have a lot to thank her for. It is very gratifying when friends and family sing my candles’ praises, and blindly trust me to make them the best-looking and sweetest-smelling candles.

Plenty of people have suggested that I start selling my products, because from the initial wax candles, I had soon branched out to include aromatic candles and gel candles in my repertoire. Though I confess to being too lazy to run an organized business, I know plenty of people who have turned their hobby of candle making into a lucrative profession.

The money-spinning aspect of candle making has become prominent of late, as the candle has grown in popularity to become many things to many people. While aromatherapy enthusiasts swear by the soothing properties of a scented candle, interior decorators declare that there is nothing like a well-positioned set of candles to beautify a room.

Given the circumstances, it is hardly a surprise that candle making as an art is constantly gaining in popularity. Today, there are hundreds of books, web sites and both online and offline classes that teach the art of making candles. For candle aficionados like Charlene, who taught candle making before switching to aromatherapy, teaching the art is only partly about making money. “It gives me a chance to share something I love,” she once told me.

Why does one want to learn candle making? For me, whom not many (including myself) thought was a particularly creative person, candle making offered a chance to find out whether that was indeed so. Having once begun, it was impossible to stop, despite the hours of patient effort I had to put in. Along the way, I discovered that candle making required great determination and discipline, not to mention time. But believe me, once you have mastered the art, the level of satisfaction makes all the effort worthwhile.

That is not say that all types of candles require the same degree of time and effort. Some are also more expensive than others, but as you get better at the craft, you will find your own little shortcuts and innovations, which will help make your candles unique and cost-effective. I know, because I have been there and experience, as they say, is the best teacher. But whatever you do, please remember to adopt proper safety measures at all times, and don’t lose heart if your initial attempts don’t bear the kind of fruit you expect!

You should be impudent today to investigate if you have a bargain or if you don’t with the bank that offers you a credit loan. Lots of of the merchant banks wil show you a loan rate that is looking equitable but feels severely or so after a period of time.

Translated it means: Woon je in Nuenen, Gerwen en Nederwetten of Lith en hebt u BKR notering. Lenen met zonder BKR is nog nooit zo gemakkelijk geweest. Haal snel een andere caravan met minikredieten, 468408 euro is gewoon mogelijk om te financieren. Van Binnenmaas tot Waalwijk, geld lenen met BKR kan hier altijd.

5.6 percent interest rate may come along so good but will that be unvarying after you’re going to give back your bank loan. Now you can inquire interest rates quickly at websites and ascertain if there are other sneaky conditions you should be aware of. It doesn’t matter if you live in Minneapolis Minnesota or in Fullerton California a just online examination will preserve you often a lot of inconvenience. That’s why now you really need to inquire and go steady if you can have a loan at a solid percent rate of interest. Inspect to see if the moneylender who wants to give you a money loan is proficient. A merchant bank in Dayton Ohio or so can have a total completely different actual rate for a 35000 dollar credit loan then a moneylender in Jonesboro Arkansas and that makes a big clear gap in your weekly pay backs.

If you are like me, you’d much rather type than write. I have never really liked my handwriting and I’m not fond of my printing either.

However our handwriting is a part of us. And if we are creating a scrapbook either for ourselves or for someone else, it’s nice to include something written by us, sharing that part of ourselves with the recipient of our scrapbook.

I have discovered a few ways to write and/or journal without pages of writing we don’t care for.

The first technique is called “hidden journaling”. This involves writing but then “hiding” what you write. Most craft stores sell small inserts for scrapbooks. These inserts resemble a page protector, but are usually half the size. You can write to your hearts content and then tuck it away inside the insert. This way, the journaling/writing is included, but it’s not what our eyes focus on when looking at a page.

The next technique for including your writing is to write in the front of the book either the theme for the book, or who the book is to, or even the date/year the book was created. This again, shows your writing style for that time in your life without having your writing all over the scrapbook pages.

The final technique for including your bad handwriting” is to be very selective and only add a letter or number here or there. For example, if you are making an album in chronological order, consider writing the year on some of the pages. Or if your album is of various people, consider writing just one letter, the first letter of the persons name on that page.

Try these techniques to incorporate your handwriting into your scrapbook albums.

Audrey Okaneko has been scrapbooking for several years now. You can reach her at audreyoka@cox.net or www.scrapping-made-simple.com

Whether you choose the simplicity of electric radio controlled cars or the realistic sights and sounds of nitro rc cars, one major decision the newcomer is faced with is just what type of radio controlled vehicle will best meet his needs.

Whatever you choose, think carefully about just how you will be spending your time with your new hobby and balance this against your current level of experience. Here is just a taste of the options open to you.

On-Road vehicles.

On-road cars are undoubtedly the most popular type of radio controlled vehicle. The standard for on-road radio controlled cars is the 1/10 scale model, although 1/8 scale models are also commonly seen. With the recent influx of micro and mini rc cars, there are now also a number of hobby quality on-road cars as small as 1/18 scale.

Both electric and nitro radio controlled cars come in on-road versions, and can be purchased either ready to run or as self-build kits. Built and geared for speed, on-road radio controlled cars should be your choice if you plan to race your cars.

Off-Road vehicles.

If you want to be able to run your radio controlled cars just about anywhere, you’ll definitely need the rugged construction of an off-road vehicle. These sturdy cars and trucks will handle hills, uneven terrain, jumps and even sand. Available in two or four-wheel drive versions, off-road vehicles can be driven in your back yard, a vacant lot or just about anywhere you like.

Like their on-road counterparts, off-road radio controlled cars can be purchased ready to run or as self-build kits and there is a wide range of both electric and nitro cars, as well as trucks, for you to choose from.

Although they are not the fastest cars available, off-road rc cars are durable, rugged and can be run practically anywhere.

Buggies.

These durable little vehicles are powerful enough to handle on and off-road terrains with speeds of up to 60 mph and are becoming increasingly popular. Although buggies can be great fun, for a wide choice of models, you will need to buy your buggy as a self-build nitro kit and this can be a lot to handle for the beginner.

Airplanes.

Radio controlled flyers also feature amongst the most popular and exciting of rc vehicles. Electric and ready-to-run versions are the most accessible for the beginner, though of course there are nitro and self-build kits available to allow for growth and customization.

Radio controlled airplanes are extremely light weight, and can be made to fly at very low speeds. The electric versions are also quiet enough to be run in a school yard, which makes them a great option for the newcomer to the radio controlled scene. If you wish to include competition as a main element of your new hobby though you should be aware that there are many fewer competitions run for rc airplanes than there are for rc cars.

Helicopters.

Though perhaps a little too complicated the beginner, radio controlled helicopters are both exciting and challenging to fly. They are normally run on gas, and can be great fun for the more experienced hobbyist.

Boats and Watercraft.

Available in both electric and nitro powered versions, radio controlled boats are normally only available in kit form and the need for waterproofing adds an additional level of difficulty. As a result, boats and other watercraft are not recommended for beginners but, once you become familiar with the workings of radio controlled vehicles, you will find boats and other watercraft possibly the most fun of all to build and race.

Although it is very much a personal choice, the newcomer would be best advised to start with ready-to-run, on-road electric radio controlled cars and, once he is familiar with the basic art of running and racing rc cars, he can then move up in stages towards his preferred model.

For more information on radio controlled cars and to pick up a free copy of our beginner’s guide please visit NitroRadioControlledCars.com today.

For the music box and antique collectors who are creative and love arts and crafts, making a music box of their own can be fairly easy and great fun. Here are simple directions to make an exquisite music box called “Peter Cottontail”. These unique directions are from Sharon Ganske’s book, “Making Marvelous Music Boxes”.

Material Needed

For the Base, Including Music Box Accessories: Round chipboard box, 2 high and 5″ diameter; Square of wood, 2 X 2 X ” thick; 18-note key-wind musical movement, including a magnetic swing arm Key extendeder; 3/8″ T-bar winding key “; 4 wooden beads, “

Decorative Accessories for Music Box

3 prepainted resin bunny figurines, 2″; Prepainted resin Easter tree, 3 ” ; Round beveled mirror, 5″ diameter; “-wide pink braided net ribbon; 16″; 5″ wide floral-print ribbon, 24″

Acrylic Paint Colors

Ivory and Medium pink Adhesive and Spray Sealer:

Hot glue sticks; Industrial strength glue; Tacky glue Tacky glue; thin-bodied Matte spray sealer

Tools and Brushes

Drill with ” drill bit; Glue gun; Old paintbrush; ; Paintbrush; Scissors

Once you have gathered all of the above materials, it is time to start making your music box. Here are the directions to assemble it.

Step One: prepare the chipboard box. Since these boxes are sometimes flimsy, they must be reinforced with by placing hot glue around the inside bottom edge of the box (side and bottom) and them allowing it to harden. Next, just apply a heavy layer of Tacky glue to the inside sides of the box and let them dry.

Step Two: using a paintbrush, paint box and lid with the ivory acrylic paint. Paint the beads with medium pink.

Step Three: Cut one strip from the net ribbon, 15 ? X 2 “, and one 4 ” circle. Using the thin-bodied Tacky glue, laminate net ribbon strip to side of box, lining up top edge. Cut small notches to side of box, lining up top edge. Cut small notches in ” overhang, laminating to box bottom and making sure it is flat and smooth. Centering, laminate 4 ” circle to box bottom.

Step Four: Using your industrial strength glue, glue square of wood to inside center front of box bottom to which musical movement will be glued. Allow to dry.

Step Five: To mark the hole position for the winding-key shaft, place musical movement inside box at front center (seam is at back). Draw a line around the musical movement. Remove musical movement and place a dot of paint on winding-key shaft. Press the musical movement, winding-key shaft side down, back in the box. Remove the musical movement and drill a ” hole in box, centering winding-key shaft in the hole.

Step Six: Using the industrial strength glue, glue beads, evenly space, to the bottom of the box for legs. Glue the musical movement into the box, centering the winding-key shaft in the hole.

Step Seven: Using Tacky glue, glue the lid on the box. Glue the braided trim to the side of lid. Glue the magnet that comes with the musical movement to the bottom of the bunny that has been chosen to dance and twirl. Allow to dry.

Step eight: Wind the wind key extender onto the winding key. Wind the wind key extender onto the winding-key shaft so music can play. Place a bunny with magnet on top of the mirror. Place the tree at the center back of box and remaining bunnies on each side of the tree. Move the tree and bunnies so the dancing bunny does not bump into them. When they are in the right position, glue them on with a small amount of industrial-strength glue. Make sure excess glue does not seep from under the figurines and onto the mirror.

Making music boxes does not have to be difficult. With a little creativity and imagination, the music box and antique collector can create their own collection!

Copyright 2006 Monique Hawkins

Monique Hawkins is the owner of Monique’s Music Box. Located at http://www.My-Music-Box.com is a music box gift store specializing in products such as inlaid music boxes, wooden keepsake boxes, ballerina music boxes for ballerina rooms décor, and musical jewelry boxes. The company also provides interesting information for music lovers of all ages. Monique also is an associate with USANA Health Sciences. One of her passions is encouraging and supporting others in their endeavors to obtain optimal health and wellness. Visit http://www.usana.com/en/products/us/essentials/what_essentials.shtml/
http://www.usana.com/en/products/us/sense/index.shtml

Choosing the correct needle plays a big role in machine quilting. All too often problems like thread breakage, skipped stitches, bad tension and such, are simply the result of selecting the incorrect needle for the quilting job at hand. A bit of knowledge about needles can save a lot of strife.

At first glance, a needle appears to be a sharp thing with a hole in it for the thread. Look closer and you will see that a needle is made of much more:

• The shank is the part that goes into the machine,

• The shaft is how thick the needle is,

• There is a scarf which is a little indent in the back of the needle where the stitch is formed,

• The groove on the front hugs or protects the thread as it goes through fabric (or quilt).

Needle sizes range from 60/8, which is very fine up to 120/19, which is large and heavy duty. Remember, the lower the number the smaller the eye and the finer the needle and the higher the number the larger the eye and the thicker the needle.

Before making your needle choice you need to take into account what thread you will use (is it thick, thin, rough or smooth) and then what the needle will be pushing through (weight and type of fabric, appliqué).

If you have difficulties when machine quilting consider the following needle suggestions:

Quilting needles have a very thin point and are the best choice for general quilting.

Jeans/Denim needles are very strong needles with a very stiff shaft (for strength), a very sharp point and a slim eye. This needle is a good choice if you will be quilting through something very thick and/or appliqué pieces that have used Vliesofix to bond them to the quilt top.

Embroidery needles work with embroidery threads (i.e. rayon threads, etc.) The needle has a large eye and a specially designed scarf for these very threads.

Metafil / Metallica needles are meant for metallic threads. Choose this needle if your thread has a rough texture. Does the texture of the thread feel lumpy or bumpy? If so this needle type is the ideal choice as the eye is very large and is Teflon-coated to stop friction.

Topstitch needles are perfect for the heavier weight threads and when all else fails! This needle is extra sharp, the eye is very long and the front groove is deep. Having a very long eye means that the needle shaft is not necessarily thick and therefore does not put large holes in the quilt.

If your quilting stitches don’t have a quality look about them or you have breakage, skipped stitches, tension problems, etc - it might be as simple as changing the needle you use!

Since discovering quilting ten years ago Bev McClune has become a professional machine quilter, a tutor of machine quilting and a partner in a patchwork and quilting business - Country Fabrics and Quilters of Toowoomba, Queensland. Bev is a featured tutor at Quiltfest, an annual quilting festival which promotes the art of patchwork and quilting. Visit Bev’s online shop at http://www.cfaq.com.au .

The Settlers of Catan has been the flagship for German Style Designer Games for many reasons, some of the main ones being its elegant simplicity and its depth of strategy. Your choice of strategies will influence your initial setup and overall game play. The separation of strategies that are outlined in this series is a bit artificial, but it is useful to understand the concepts behind them. In practice, players will use a combination of these strategies during gameplay. This article, the fifth in this series, will discuss four more commonly used Settlers of Catan Strategies.

The Card Builder Strategy

This strategy is similar to the Ore/Grain Strategy, as it involves getting Ore/Grain hexes and building two cities fast. Then, cranking out development cards. This player will get an inordinate number of Knight cards, allowing them to keep the robber off their hexes and get other resources by stealing from other players. Often, victory point cards will come up. At some point in the game, try for a third settlement or city. The largest army is practically guaranteed. Note that this strategy may not work very well in higher victory point games, or those Seafarers scenarios where extra victory points are awarded for getting to islands.

The Balance Strategy

This strategy strives for a balance in all five resources. Settlements can be built relatively quickly, and the player is less likely to be boxed in. Also, this strategy leads people to become more self-sufficient, and less likely to require trading. A 3:1 port could be very useful here.

This strategy is what a lot of players strive for in the initial setup. This is a powerful way to begin the game if you can do it, as it is easy to be flexible and change to another strategy later on.

The Common Resource Strategy

Every game usually has a very common resource, that no one in particular wants. This is usually wool, as it is often the odd man out. The Wood-Brick players and Ore-Grain players (the two most popular strategies) will only be trying for wool if it is convenient. A friend of mine sometimes likes to go after wool hexes, and calls it the “Sheep-O-Matic” strategy. Since both Ore-Grain and Wood-Brick strategies need wool, he can often trade somewhat easily. He goes for a wool port (the Sheep-O-Matic) to get cards he can’t trade for. He does best by combining this strategy with the Card Builder strategy. This would probably work well in Seafarers, where everyone needs wool for sails. This strategy doesn’t necessarily require wool, just any common resource that no one seems to want. You really need the port though, or you can kiss the game goodbye. This is similar to the Cartel strategy, which is discussed in Part 4 of this series.

The Straight Numerical Advantage Strategy

This strategy really tries to maximize production, without concentrating on any particular resource. Just get as much of anything. You may need to trade a lot, because you could end up with a strange mix. This works better in games with more people (more people to trade with). A 3:1 port is probably essential, if you have a varied mix of resources.

I put this in because some people use it, but this is not really a strategy. A good strategy is a plan to let you get the particular combination of resources you need to get certain victory points, which this does not do. This could be good in the initial setup as a short-term plan, before you figure out what other strategy you will need to win.

For more information about the game, please visit the author’s Settlers of Catan fansite. This series is based upon the Settlers of Catan Strategy and Tactics Guide, which is located at http://settlersofcatan.blogspot.com

Dan Kozarchuk is a self admitted board game junkie who has an obsession with designer board games, particularly the Settlers of Catan.

What is this thing called cross stitch? Well…in a way, cross stitch is just like embroidery or needlepoint. But that one statement will often bring many handcrafters to the boiling point. Die hards from each type of craft think that their own craft is the best and they just don’t like being compared to the others.

So…to simplify things lets say that cross stitch is mainly stitching with planned x’s like this xxx or angles like this ///// or this or lines like this —– with loops and controlled knots. Now you just put the stitches together and you yourself can create some of the most beautiful gifts you have ever given to anyone.

Let’s Look at Some Basics

Cross-Stitch has become such a popular type of handcraft that you often find the crafters no longer use a kit for their projects, they create their own. But, before you can go out on your own and start creating your own art, you will need to know more about the fabrics, thread, needles and frames. That’s why most Crafters start out with a kit.
Also when you buy patterns or kits, sometimes you decide to use different fabrics and threads than what is mentioned in the projects. The following will help you to understand and adapt the patterns and materials for your own needs.

Cross-Stitch Fabrics

What is called counted cross-stitch can be stitched on just about anything that will allow you to make consistently even sized stitches. I have even seen people use an iron on pattern and an iron on grid to insure the even stitches they wanted. (Like on T-shirts)

Aida Cloth

Aida cloth is the most common of all the cross-stitch fabrics. Look close at the fabric and you will see that the woven threads are grouped and separated by little tiny spaces. This makes a pattern of squares so that even a beginner will be able to see exactly where their cross-stitches need to be placed. Aida cloth comes in 6,8,11,14,16 and 18 count threads but 14 count is the most often used thread count for the beginner. Aida cloth comes in a variety of colors and threads counts and for the beginner they even have (in the white cloth only) a removable grid of pre-basted threads. Now how about that for being helpful?

Linen

Over all, because of the price, linen is considered to be an excellent fabric to work with by the more experienced cross-stitchers. The threads that they use to weave the linen cause a slightly irregular thickness to work on. And when you buy linen you need to remember that most designs are stitched over two threads so, 28-count linen will work out a 14 stitches per square inch. Linen is made in counts of 14 to 40 count so at 14 you would have 7 stitches per square inch and at 40 you would have 20 stitches per square inch.

Sweaters

Sweaters are an excellent background for cross-stitch. Just by basting a grid onto the sweater you will be able to have the even consistent stitches you want. But don’t try cross-stitching on knits without the grid because knit stitches are not square. They are wider than they are tall and your design will appear broader and shorten than the pattern you are working from.

Burlap

Burlap can be counted and stitched as easily as any other traditional cross-stitch fabric. And if you are working a country style pattern it will give you that little extra something we all look for in the work we do.

Evenweave Fabric

The recent popularity of cross-stitching has created a need for specialty fabrics. These fabrics are called evenweave fabrics because they are woven from threads of a consistent diameter. Most of the evenweave fabrics are counted by so many threads by the inch and are worked much like the linen fabrics.

Needlepoint Canvas

Quite often needlepoint canvas is used for cross-stitch, especially on clothing and things that are not suitable alone. In fact waste canvas is designed to unravel when dampened. And the count runs from 6 1/2 to 20 stitches per inch.

Hardanger Fabric

Now hardanger fabric is used for the extra fine cross-stitch. This is the traditional fabric used for the famous Norwegian embroidery of the same name. This weave produces 22 small squares per inch.

Threads for Cross-Stitching

Most threads used for embroidery can be used for cross-stitching, just separate the threads into ones, twos, threes, fours, etc, etc. The more threads you use the richer the work will look, the less threads the more fragile it will look. The rayon or silk floss will give your work a shine or slick look but sometimes they are more difficult to use as they tend to tangle. Pearl cotton is also a high sheen.

Flower Thread and Other Specialty Threads

Flower thread is 100% cotton with a matte finish and is used as a single thread (same as two ply). Over dyed threads are introduced on the market almost everyday. Most of them give that one of a kind appearance because of their irregularly variegated colors. All of the threads I have mentioned so far are available in this form also. They are great for when you want to change colors without having the need to change threads.

Yarn and Ribbon

When working with the large projects you can use yarn, ribbon and even strips of fabric to give your work your own personal touch. The larger the squares the larger ply thread you can use.

Needles

Generally blunt pointed needles are better for working on most cross-stitch fabrics because they slip through the holes and threads without snagging and splitting the fibers. There is one exception to this rule, when working with waste canvas you will need to use the sharp embroidery type needles. And a lot of companies sell the blunt needles labeled “Cross-stitch” but they are identical the the tapestry needles which have a much larger selection to choose from.

The First Pattern

Your first pattern should be something small and simple, so you would be better off starting out with a small kit. It’s kind of like using training wheels on your first bike… it will give you a little security. Besides it comes with needles, floss, fabric and anything else you need to complete your first project.

Good luck and happy stitching.

Brent is a regular writer for http://www.home-n-family.com - for more home and family related information please visit our website.

In this article we’re going to speculate on the future of collectible dolls based on some current day facts.

One fact about collectible dolls that is pretty certain is that people will most likely always continue to collect them. That is not the issue that is in question in this article. What is in question is if we’ll be collecting these dolls simply for our own enjoyment or if there will continue to be a market for new collectible dolls.

Back in the days when collecting anything was unheard of, most of the dolls that people bought eventually ended up in the trash or collecting dust in an attic. Certainly we didn’t go through the trouble of hunting high and low for a certain doll, paying good money for it and then bringing it home only to let it sit in its box on a shelf. But that is the reality of today’s collectors. All because one day somebody realized that all these original dolls like Barbie and G.I. Joe were slowly disappearing from the world and that maybe they might be worth something. And then it started.

The guides started coming out telling people that a 1959 Barbie doll could get them $2500 at a sale if they could find one. That’s when the craze started. It was like somebody had told the human race that their oxygen supply was about to run out if they didn’t all jump off a cliff. People started running to garage sales, antique shows, novelty shops, and then when the Internet became as popular as it is today, they started to hit every auction site they could find, not just to buy but also to sell if they had anything worth selling.

The problem with this new attitude about old things was that people began to think it would carry over to newer things that they purchased. Whenever someone saw a new doll they would buy it, hoping that someday it would be worth a lot of money and they would have something either for their retirement or to pass along to their children. The problem with that thinking is that the reason the old dolls were actually worth something was because people didn’t keep them. Most ended up in the trash. But with the new attitude of saving everything and anything, the value of the newer dolls, even years later, was getting to nowhere near the current value of the older dolls. To give you an idea of this problem, a doll that was purchased 10 years ago for say $20 wouldn’t be worth more than $25 today. The estimated value of these dolls even in 20 years isn’t more than $35 or $40. People were not seeing the increase in value that they were hoping for. Why? Because everybody was saving these dolls. There were literally as many of these doll 10 years later as there were when they first came out.

Does this mean that collectible doll collecting for profit is dead? The experts say that for the newer dolls, yes, but the older dolls will always go up in value.

Some companies are trying to counter this problem by releasing dolls in limited quantities. But it is still doubtful that even these dolls will ever be worth what an old Barbie Doll is worth, simply because all these dolls will ultimately end up in its original box on a shelf. Something that Barbie never had the luxury of.

——————————————————-
Michael Russell
Your Independent guide to Collectible Dolls
——————————————————-

We have found a “new” way to see how well the stabilizers and methods you are using are working with so that your designs look GREAT without any off outlines, puckering, cupping or warping. This is a TEST - Only a Test - but if You and your stabilizers pass - You will have great looking designs. And if your methods and stabilizers don’t pass - you can just try again - Till you get it right.

I think and recommend that we should test stitch all designs every time that we stitch-out any new design for the first time. With testing we get to see how the colors work out and whether we have used the right stabilizers and methods. After the test stitching - we can easily see if the outlines are off and if all the parts line-up - BUT - we don’t know if the fault is in the design itself or in the stabilizing. This is where our New “stabilizing test” is really useful. It can show us if we have used the right stabilizers and methods. It’s real easy - just baste a “picture frame” around the design. And when you are finished stitching - you can easily see if the basting stitch is still straight or if the design stitching has pulled it in - in some places and made the straight basting picture frame no longer straight. If it is not straight - then the conclusion has to be that either you used the wrong stabilizer for this fabric and design or that you didn’t use enough or in the right way (method).

And conversely - If the basting frame stitch is still straight and the outlines are off or certain parts don’t line up - then the conclusion has to be that the stabilizers and methods used are OK - And the problem is the fault of the design. ( Of course in any test we need to make sure that everything is working properly and that we are using the right needle, have the right tension settings and ect.)

Please let me know what you think about the “stabilizing test” above and if you tried it - and what the results were - I think is is a great idea - I wish that I could take the credit for it - but Sandy gets all the credit for this - But I can take credit for writing this and passing a good idea along. - I hope.

Our designer and digitizer, Sandy Carter creates all our machine design patterns and takes the time to ensure that they will sew out easily and still be unique, distinctive and dimensional. Our patterns can be sewn with all home and commercial machines. The pictures of our designs on our web pages can’t show all their beauty - that is why we have free machine embroidery designs files to download so you can sew out the designs to see the quality and how well they stitch out on your own clothes or fabrics. Many of the patterns in the new collections have free embroidery designs samples to download, so you can stitch some of our free designs on your machine and see the quality of our embroidered designs today. You can see all of our designs at our web site >

http://www.ThreadArtist.com and get more embroidery help also.

Terry at Thread Artist Embroidery Designs

Email me at ThreadArtist@qx.net